For reasons unknown, the design didn’t go into production. Instead, decades later, it inspired U-Boat’s founder to create his watch brand. Since then, Italo Fontana’s hand-crafted luxury watches, with their large cases, distinctive left-handed crowns, and signature retro-nautical – ‘Steampunk’ even, according to some bloggers – designs, have built a loyal following. Compared with many U-Boat designs, the Darkmoon may appear remarkably subdued. However , its striking sunburst – U-Boat call this soleil – dial, under that seductively curvaceous domed sapphire crystal, is not low-key. Here’s what Ron Corder, publisher of respected watch-industry magazine WatchPro, wrote in Oct 2020:
‘U-Boat has added to the Capsoil family this year with a sub-collection called Dark Moon [sic] — a mention of the blackness of their dials being like the dark side of the moon — and even given them a horror inflection having a blood red and black model. Mr. Fontana channelling his inner werewolf, perhaps. ’
It’s interesting, but not surprising, that the rich-red shine of the zoomed dial on that particular model evoked such a visceral response. It was the same when we showed the range to Michael Langley, an experienced visual designer, founder of Uchi Clothing as well as creator of the Uchi Horology Series of view art and also clothing: ‘When I look at a piece such as the red-on-black U-Boat 8466/MT, ’ he says, ‘I’m in awe of the striking, visually-bold design that’s both practical looking and creatively arresting. The liquid filled domed amazingly and huge switch numbers increase the submarine vibe. If any of the Darkmoon range suggests this type of strong connection to U-Boat’s traditional retro-nautical style it’s surely this one. ’
For anyone attempting to understand why certain watch styles work so well, Watches Tell More Than Time, written by industrial style guru Delle condizioni Coates in 2003 is a useful reference. Dipping into this book was a no-brainer when planning to write about Darkmoon. Gazing at the Darkmoon’s peripatetic compensating bubble reminds of Movado’s Nathan George Horwitt-designed Museum enjoy from 1947, with its single round ‘midday sun’ motif at 12 o’clock. To quote Coates:
‘The [Museum watch] earned its status, instead, upon aesthetic grounds, by virtue of the actual seminal innovation of a numberless face…it has become one of the most memorable and emulated timepieces of all time’. The actual U-Boat Darkmoon may not be the most sophisticated oil-filled watch ever made, or the priciest. But by incorporating that essential compensating real estate into this kind of visually deep and impressive ‘high value-contrast’ dial, it might position U-Boat as a design and style leader individuals to try and copy in future.
And then, thinking of horological design leaders who’ve tried oil-filling, there are Benoît Mintiens’ innovative Ressence brand… We won’t be the first many to be reminded of Ressence’s breathtaking : and seriously expensive ~ timepieces by Capsoil along with Darkmoon. Actually, though they famously use oil-filled technology, they alter from the U-Boat watch in a couple of important ways.
Firstly, there’s the particular technology. The particular U-Boat Darkmoon completely immerses its Ronda quartz movement and call in oil. Compare that to the TYPE 3 in addition to TYPE 5 Ressence. They combine an air-filled slot provided for the mechanical movement with an oil-filled upper chamber which delivers their trademark ‘water drop’ image projection effect. A sophisticated micro-magnetic transmission connects the two chambers. The other big difference is price. As Watch Pilot co-founder Tim Harrison explains: ‘A Ressence costs the same as a mid-size Audi, but you can buy U-Boat’s Darkmoon from us for well under £1000! You even get some Tuscan ‘Vorsprung durch Technik’ too - here is all’avanguardia della tecnica within Italian! It is an exciting prospect when you remember that you‘re buying into this rather retiré oil-filled horological technology. And the stunning visible impact it creates possible. ’ Is the U-Boat Darkmoon the ‘poor man’s Ressence’? We’ll let you become the judge of that. What we will explain to you is that oil-filled watches have been around for years, albeit as a specialised plus exclusive horological sub-set… There are Ressence of course , as well as anti-mist, reflection-free upside down mission watches such as Sinn’s UX. The rest, including timepieces such as the French Beauchat Genesis 4000 HPS, or Hydroil-filled Bell & Ross Hydromax 11100M, complete an exclusive club. But nothing, not even used examples, can be had for anywhere near the price of U-Boat’s latest Darkmoon. As mentioned earlier, the moving compensating bubble on the Darkmoon (and Capsoil’s) face is really a constant tip of the genuinely-iconic Movado Adult ed watch.
Why’s it there? The real estate, which evokes strongly polarised responses from watch-forum participants, isn’t just a designer’s bored aesthetic indulgence. Instead, though having the capacity to delight or torment all day that bubble exists for an important technical reason. It provides compensation when the oil expands or contracts with changes in temperature within the manufacturer’s recommended operating range of 0 ° and +60 °C.
We can only speculate about how many Darkmoon wearers will be unable to resist trying to hold the real estate directly above their watch’s centre post. Is this any unisex U-Boat watch? Though U-Boat offers watches - such as the 8474 Rainbow Ladies Mother of Pearl - specifically targeted at women, it’s no secret that it is primary audience has traditionally been young and male.versace men watches replica
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However , current fashion-forward watch-wearing regularly sees larger men’s timepieces gracing female wrists. According to U-Boat’s UK importers, using a 44 milimeter case that will wears small compared to its dimensions suggest, Darkmoon is definitely wowing both genders. Make no mistake; this is arguably one of the best U-Boat wrist watches for women at the moment. After all, why should such a visually-engaging horological objet be restricted to the boys, particularly in a world where women happily rock men’s Rolexes and other luxury watches?
Clearly, brand chemistry in which endears U-Boat to male celebs such as Sylvester Stallone and Nicholas Cage also works incredibly on their woman counterparts for example Israeli product Bar Refaeli and actress Lindsay Lohan. How about you? So that certainly is the U-Boat Darkmoon. Do you love designer watches with a strong retro-nautical story, unmissable graphic impact, and that conversation-starting oil-filled technology? If so, this piece, with its fascinating design and fascinating ‘Made inside Tuscany’ tale could be for you.
Enjoy Jack’s Youtube-video and soak up his infectious enthusiasm for these breathtaking designer watches. Then browse our collection of U-Boat wristwatches for men -- and women : to discover the wonderful dark side from the Darkmoon collection for yourself rapid or like a gift for someone special.
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